Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab: Mme. Moriarty, Misfortune Teller

BPAL Mme. Moriarty, Misfortune Teller

Red musk, vanilla bean, pomegranate, black currant, patchouli leaf and wild plum.

I think that patchouli gets a bad reputation. Yes, it can smell like a hippie who hasn’t bathed in two weeks, but if blended right, it can be earthy and rich and very sexy. This particular scent is considered one that you need to try if you like patchouli, so a friend sent me a decant of it. Since I love pretty much every note in it, I was very excited to finally try it. You can buy this scent on the BPAL website for $24 US for 5mL.

In the bottle: Mostly patchouli, with a berry undertone. This is a dark, dirty patchouli with a lot of earthiness and I like that.

On the skin: The patchouli is…gone? Despite being a very powerful note, I can’t smell the patch anymore and it’s really weird. Instead, I’m getting tart pomegranate and a very red wine kind of smell, possibly from the currant. I’m really disappointed by this! I wanted a fruit and patch blend and I’m not getting that at all. It’s just boozy and sour on me.

Mme. Moriarty

Art belongs to Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab.

TL;DR: Tart pomegranate and red wine. No patch when on the skin. Disappointing. 3/5.

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Arcana: Anthropophagia

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Arcana Anthropophagia

Vanilla-infused pear sorbet with sugarcane, white amber, and a drop of French cognac absolute.

There are certain notes in perfume that don’t get enough love in my opinion. One of those is pear. I really enjoy pear scented things, but the note very rarely appears in any kind of mainstream or indie fragrance. That, combined with the great reviews for this scent, convinced me to take the plunge and try it. Now, some might also be curious about the name, since it doesn’t have anything to do with pear. This scent was part of the 7 Deadly Sins collection, and this was added as the “eighth sin”. That’s because “anthropophagia” means cannibalism. Not exactly the name you expect for a pear sorbet scent. This scent is currently in stock at Nui Cobalt Designs for $20 US.

In the bottle: Bright, somewhat tart pear and a touch of booze. For some reason, it reminds me of those green apple Jolly Ranchers, but this doesn’t smell artificial.

On the skin: This just blooms on the skin. It’s beautiful juicy pear with just the slightest touch of creamy sugar and some extra cognac. It’s the perfect balance of sweet and tart and it has surprisingly strong throw for such a delicate kind of scent. The amber is just barely detectable and it keeps it grounded and adds a perfume-y kind of quality that I actually really like. It seems perfect for hot weather because it smells very refreshing.

TL;DR: Juicy sugared pears with cognac. Sweet and tart. Stunning. 6/5.

 

Nocturne Alchemy: Vampire Vanilla Bat

NAVA Vampire Vanilla Bat

Vanilla Bean fleck, Kobalt, Crystalline, Tahitian Vanilla, French Vanilla and a spot of Vanilla-infused Studio created Patchouli.

Halloween is fast approaching, and that means that many brands are rolling out their Halloween collections. This scent is from NAVA’s Halloween collection, and it is a returning favorite from previous years. Surprisingly, I don’t have very many perfumes that include vanilla and patchouli despite the fact that I love both of those notes. You can purchase this scent on NAVA’s website for $24 US for 5mL.

In the bottle: Lots of vanilla with a touch of earthiness. I want more patchouli!

On the skin: Much better! I would say that the blend is now 50/50 split between vanilla and patchouli. The vanilla is non-gourmand but sweet, and the patch adds that glorious earthy, smoky quality. This is a simple scent, but it’s really stunning! I also feel like people who hate patchouli should try this because it might convince them to like patch.

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Batrritos.

TL;DR: Sweet, smoky vanilla and earthy patch. Beautiful. 5/5.

Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab: Mouse Circus

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BPAL Mouse Circus

A toodle oodle of pink cotton candy noses, vanilla spun sugar fur, scattered kernels of popcorn, and a touch of polished golden wood.

I’ve always loved carnival and circus themed things, and I’ve been on the hunt for the perfect carnival/circus scent for a while now. Most of those kinds of fragrances are too sweet for me. However, I heard that this one is a good balance of sweet and not-sweet, so I had to give it a try. I will also be wearing this scent for Halloween, as it matches my costume (2017 version of Pennywise the Dancing Clown.) You can buy this on BPAL’s website for $26 US for 5mL.

In the bottle: Mostly cotton candy and spun sugar with some popcorn. Thankfully, it’s not overly sweet.

On the skin: The popcorn and cotton candy switch; the popcorn becomes the main note and the cotton candy becomes secondary. It’s a perfect mix of sweet and salty. I feel like the polished wood is the base that prevents any of the notes from going too sweet or too salty. It’s also a very realistic popcorn note, but the scent as a whole is surprisingly wearable! I think I’ve finally found my perfect circus/carnival scent!

TL;DR: Popcorn with cotton candy and spun sugar. The perfect circus scent! 5/5.

Arcana: Pirouette

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Arcana Pirouette

Two Finger Ballet, Twirling the Pearl ,deep labdanum, satiny sandalwood, and sugary French lavender absolute.

Arcana is one of my favorite perfume houses, and they recently released their Halloween collection. This scent was not a part of that, but is instead a collaboration with a customer who suggested it and drew the label. It combines two of Arcana’s most beloved scents: Two Finger Ballet and Twirling the Pearl, both of which I have tried and liked. This scent is chock full of notes that I love, so I knew I had to try it. The name is also a bit sentimental, since I’ve danced since the age of 4. This scent will be restocked at Pretty Indulgent, Arcana’s ebay store, and Nui Cobalt Designs and it will cost $20 US for 5mL.

In the bottle: Oooooh this is lovely. It’s mostly Two Finger Ballet, but it’s got that gorgeous Arcana lavender underneath it, plus some honey and then galbanum. The galbanum adds a green scent that cuts the sweetness just enough so that it doesn’t really read as gourmand.

On the skin: The Two Finger Ballet retreats, and the labdanum, sandalwood, galbanum, and lavender come forward. Honey and caramel can be detected as the base. Once it fully dries, the Two Finger Ballet takes the spotlight again, but the labdanum, lavender, and honey are still prominent, with the galbanum in the back adding the tiniest touch of green. It’s sexy but in a very understated, delicate way, like the way a cream lace dress can be sexy. This scent is a serious morpher, but its so unique and stunning.

TL;DR: Two Finger Ballet with labdanum, lavender, and galbanum. Morphs a lot, but is absolutely beautiful. 6/5.

Nocturne Alchemy: Pyramid Vanille 1

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NAVA Pyramid Vanille 1

Kobalt, Crystalline, Crystal, and Moonstone.

As you may have noticed, I adore vanilla perfumes and I hoard them like I’m an actual dragon. Nocturne Alchemy is known for their vanilla perfumes, so its about time that I tried some. Pyramid Vanille 1 is a very popular one with great reviews, therefore I tried it first. You can purchase this on the NAVA website for $27 US for 5mL.

In the bottle: I’ve smelled this before, and the reason I have smelled this before is because it’s pretty much identical to the vanilla in Adele. It’s a light, fluffy, beautiful vanilla.

On the skin: It doesn’t change much from the bottle. It’s still that beautiful vanilla that I know and love. However, because Adele is pretty much this scent + peach, I don’t think I can justify having both. I’ll probably sell this one then, since I really love the peach note in Adele.

TL;DR: Beautiful fluffy, light vanilla. Identical to the vanilla in Adele. 5/5.

Nocturne Alchemy: Spooktacular

NAVA Spooktacular

Vanilla Essence, Mallow Root, Whispers of Sugar and UnEarthly Spooktacular Vanilla Bean pods, and Bastet’s Ice Cream Accord.

*Spooky Scary Skeletons plays in the distance*

It’s September, which means that Halloween is fast approaching! This scent is from NAVA’s Goblin collection, which are scents that evoke everyone’s favorite fall holiday. While I myself did not purchase any, a friend sent me a decant because this scent has been absolutely raved about. 2mL samples are $10 US, 5mL for $20 US, and 10mL for $38 US, all on the NAVA website.

In the bottle: Mmmm, buttery gourmand vanilla! It reminds me a lot of BPTP Boo hair gloss. It reminds me of a frosted vanilla cupcake.

On the skin: Oh no. For some reason, I’m getting that burnt linen smell that I hated in Antique Lace. That makes no sense, since there is no linen note in Spooktacular. The burnt note isn’t as strong as it is in Antique Lace, but its enough that I don’t want to wear the scent any more. I like smoky scents, but this smell is sickly sweet and acrid. I’m so disappointed!

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Spoopy.

TL;DR: An extra sweet version of Antique Lace, complete with the gross “Miss Havisham on fire” note. Very disappointing. 2.5/5.