Black Phoenix Trading Post: Hair Gloss Reviews Pt.2

BPTP Hair Glosses Pt.2

When it comes to BPTP hair glosses, there is a very wide variety of scents. Because of that, I like getting little 5mL decants of a bunch of them so I can test them out. All of these hair gloss decants (except So Below) are from the lovely ladies at Crown and Tulip decants!  I highly recommend them for all your decant needs. They’re really great people, and they’re super professional as well.

Now, on to the hair glosses!

So Below (Haute Macabre collection)

Amber and black copal with black coconut, Sumatran red patchouli, green cardamom pod, and golden musk.

I love this one. It’s a really different take on patchouli; it’s not the dark kind you would expect, it’s much lighter. I get mostly that patch note alongside the coconut, cardamom, and amber. It’s dirty and sexy, but also very tropical.

Sugar Plum Fairy 

Sugar plums, vanilla-infused sugar, tiare, amber musk, apricot peel, and a light dusting of cacao. 

Oh boy, this is sweet. Like really sweet. I primarily smell sugared plums and apricots with a touch of chocolate. I love gourmands, but this is too sweet for me. It’s very candy-like and a bit cloying. If you gravitate towards super sweet/candy scents, you’ll love this.

Mischief (Carnival Diabolique collection)

Blood-spattered cotton candy.

Spun sugar and cinnamon! I’m not getting any actual cotton candy, but I don’t mind that. I find this to be surprisingly autumnal. I would love this, but it unfortunately vanishes from my hair within minutes of application.

Who’s Nibbling at My House? (Carnival Diabolique collection)

Caramel apples, cardamom cakes, hazelnut cream, and butterscotch.

Gourmand heaven. It’s all caramel and butterscotch with a little spice from the cardamom. It’s so warm and gooey and perfect for fall. It actually smells like a richer version of Owl Creek Aleworks. 

 

Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab: Edith Cushing

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BPAL Edith Cushing

Pearlescent vanilla musk with white sandalwood, grey amber, white patchouli, ambrette seed, and oudh.

There are few BPAL fragrances more coveted than Edith Cushing from the Crimson Peak collection, which was an official collab between the movie and BPAL. Since the Crimson Peak collection is one of those where once an item is out of stock, its gone, Edith is very hard to find and it’s highly sought after. Bottles can go for $80 or more, so I jumped at the chance to try a single imp of it for 1/8 of the usual price. It’s got tons of notes in it that I like: vanilla, musk, patchouli, sandalwood, and amber. But will it live up to the massive hype?

In the bottle: Whoa, hellooo there vanilla! That’s pretty much all I’m getting right now; it’s also a very gourmand, rich, buttery vanilla that reminds me of Arcana Two Finger Ballet. Right now, they smell super similar.

On the skin: The gourmand quality to the vanilla vanishes, and the musk gets a lot stronger. It’s more balanced now, and very feminine. Musk and non-foodie vanilla are still the main notes, but I’m definitely getting a little bit of nuttiness from the ambrette seed. There is also an almost dusty quality to it, which is from either the sandalwood or the oudh. The dustiness really works here; it reminds me of an old Victorian mansion, which is a major plot point in Crimson Peak. Edith is like if Arcana Two Finger Ballet and Solstice Scents Manor had a baby. It’s a really pretty fragrance and I like it a lot. That being said, I don’t think that it’s worth the $80 a bottle that it usually goes for on the second market, but as always, YMMV!

TL;DR: Musky, nutty vanilla with a slight dustiness. Very feminine. 4/5.

Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab: Fuck You, Said the Raven

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BPAL Fuck You, Said the Raven

Glossy black, rough, and gravelly: violet-gilded opoponax, black patchouli, myrrh, and oak leaf.

As I have mentioned, I love Neil Gaiman; he’s one of my favorite authors. Recently, his name has been in the news because of the television adaptation of one of his books, American Gods. The show has received rave reviews and the book itself is fantastic. BPAL has been making a whole line of perfumes inspired by the book and the show, with over 60 scents in the current lineup. Of all the scents, this is the one I wanted the most, because of both the name of the fragrance and the notes. It sounded like would be a very dark, atmospheric scent. I make it a rule to not blind buy scents, but I broke that rule for this one; I purchased a half bottle from Crown and Tulip decants. If you ever want indie decants, specifically for BPAL or NAVA, this is the place to go. You can now buy this on BPAL’s website for $26 US.

“Say ‘Nevermore,’” said Shadow.

“Fuck you,” said the raven.”

In the bottle: DARK. Very opoponax and myrrh heavy. It really smells glossy and black, like the description says, but there’s something else almost mystical about it.

On the skin: The myrrh retreats to the back, but you can still smell it and it continues to lend a sort of magical/otherwordly smell. The violet and oak leaf come forward, creating a dark forest kind of fragrance. The opoponax and patchouli are forming the base, so they’re not as powerful as one might expect. There is also something almost “perfume-y” about it. This scent really evoked the image of a massive, magical forest at night, rustling trees and night-blooming flowers. Be careful in applying it though, because it is STRONG and I can see it easily causing headaches if too much is used.

*NOTE: Now that this has rested from travel, I like it a lot more. It’s much less floral and more “dark, magical forest” now.*

TL;DR: Violet and oak with dark, swirling resins. Dark and woodsy. 3.5-4/5.

 

Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab: Mary Read

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BPAL Mary Read

Salt air, ocean mist, aged patchouli, sarsaparilla, watered-down rum, leather-tinged musk, and a spray of gunpowder.

You know what’s better than a regular pirate? A badass lady pirate. Mary Read was just that, and she pillaged and plundered during the golden age of piracy along side another famous female pirate, Anne Bonny. The scent really sounded evocative of piracy and the Caribbean, so I was happy when an imp of it came along. You can find this scent on the BPAL website for $17.50 US for a full size and $4 US for an imp.

In the bottle: Spicy! I’m getting a lot of sarsaparilla, patchouli. and musk.

On the skin: This is a very strong scent with a lot of throw. The salt and musk really ramp up once applied and you can definitely smell the gunpowder and the leather. The spices tone down a little bit, but they’re still there. This really encapsulates the scent of a pirate without all the sweat and dirt. Jack Sparrow probably smells like this.

TL;DR: A strong mix of salt, spice, musky leather, and gunpowder. Very pirate-y. 4/5.

Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab: Alice, Reaper of Cruelty

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Alice, Reaper of Cruelty

Bourbon geranium emboldened by the rich scent of aged patchouli, the sweetness of peach, raspberry leaf, and bourbon vanilla, surrounded by a butterfly swarm of spicy carnation and Italian bergamot.

This one was a free sample I received. I’m not a floral person at all, but I figure that I’d give it a shot. You can buy this for $26 US on the BPAL website. Samples are not available since this is part of the Pretty Deadly collection.

In the bottle: Very strong and spicy, but not incense spicy. Kind of floral spicy? I would consider this an “oriental floral” scent if I was using mainstream terminology.

On the skin: It’s mostly carnation, bergamot and geranium on me. There is definitely patchouli in there, but its actually taking a backseat to the florals so someone who hates patch might like this. I think I can detect a tiny hint of fresh raspberry in the back? This feminine but not traditionally so. Like one of the assassins from Kill Bill would wear this.

TL;DR: Spicy florals. Feminine, but dangerous. 3/5.

Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab: Laughter of Loki

BPAL Laughter of Loki

Serpentine green musk with fiery red ginger, sweet basil, alder leaf, white patchouli, cistus, and mistletoe.

CAUTION: WORDINESS AHOY

Ever since I began looking into indie perfumes, this one has always been on the top of my wish list. Laughter of Loki is from the 2014 Ragnarok collection, which was limited edition. It’s highly coveted and it has been permanently sold out for years, with bottles going for up to $100 on ebay. Luckily, I was offered a decant of it by a lovely user on the BPAL forum.

I’ve always loved reading about mythology, especially Norse mythology, and Loki was always my favorite. When I saw this, I knew I needed to find it. The notes are also super interesting and unusual, especially red ginger, basil, and mistletoe. Hell, I didn’t even know that you could put mistletoe in perfume! So, did this perfume live up to all the hype that I built up for it?

As mentioned before, this scent is sold out and it doesn’t look like it will come back, so you would have to find someone who is selling a bottle.

In the bottle: Very green. I think I’m getting the alder leaf and mistletoe here.

On the skin: Now we’re talking! It’s less green now, and the musk has come forward alongside the patchouli. The green notes are still there but they’ve moved to the back. There’s a tiny kick of the ginger and basil in there to surprise you. “Serpentine” in the description fits it well. It’s very sexy and there’s something distinctly warm about it. It fits Loki perfectly. It really is a scent that needs to be accompanied by a sly, curled smile and a twinkle of mischief in the eye.

Related image

THIS FACE RIGHT HERE

TL;DR: Sexy musk, patchouli and greenery with a bite of ginger and basil. Very Loki. 5/5.

Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab: Tombeur

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BPAL Tombeur

Vanilla-infused sandalwood, blood musk, antique patchouli, vetiver, lavender, bitter almond, amber, and a trickle of Snake Oil.

Tombeur is part of the VILF collection also known as the “Vampires Don’t Sleep Alone” collection. I was drawn in from the vampire theme and then I fell in love with the note list; it sounds utterly sexy. I was also curious to try a scent with BPAL’s famous Snake Oil since I hadn’t smelled it. Because this is part of a special collection, it only comes in the 5mL size. You can buy it from BPAL’s website for $20 US.

In the bottle: Spicy. Kind of smells like the renaissance faire? I’m pretty the spice is coming from the blood musk and Snake Oil

On the skin: There’s something kind of bitter and off smelling at the beginning. I think that might be the bitter almond or the vetiver, but I’m not sure. It softens after a few minutes and the sandalwood appears, but it still has that weird opening. I’m not sure about this one.

TL;DR: Spicy and bitter. Not sure if I’m a fan. 3/5.