Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab: Mme. Moriarty, Misfortune Teller

BPAL Mme. Moriarty, Misfortune Teller

Red musk, vanilla bean, pomegranate, black currant, patchouli leaf and wild plum.

I think that patchouli gets a bad reputation. Yes, it can smell like a hippie who hasn’t bathed in two weeks, but if blended right, it can be earthy and rich and very sexy. This particular scent is considered one that you need to try if you like patchouli, so a friend sent me a decant of it. Since I love pretty much every note in it, I was very excited to finally try it. You can buy this scent on the BPAL website for $24 US for 5mL.

In the bottle: Mostly patchouli, with a berry undertone. This is a dark, dirty patchouli with a lot of earthiness and I like that.

On the skin: The patchouli is…gone? Despite being a very powerful note, I can’t smell the patch anymore and it’s really weird. Instead, I’m getting tart pomegranate and a very red wine kind of smell, possibly from the currant. I’m really disappointed by this! I wanted a fruit and patch blend and I’m not getting that at all. It’s just boozy and sour on me.

Mme. Moriarty

Art belongs to Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab.

TL;DR: Tart pomegranate and red wine. No patch when on the skin. Disappointing. 3/5.

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Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab: Eat Me

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BPAL Eat Me

Three white cakes, vanilla and red and black currants.

This guy was another free sample and I was excited to get it since I love gourmands. You can buy this on the BPAL website for $17.50 US for a full size of 5mL or $4 US for an imp, but the latter are sold out.

In the bottle: Very sweet. Currently I’m getting a lot of buttery cake and vanilla. It almost reminds me of buttered popcorn a little bit.  The currants are subtle in the back, but they add a little fruity tinge in there.

On the skin: The longer I’m wearing it, the more the currants come out which I like because it makes it a little less super sweet. Now it’s like a sweet berry vanilla cake.  If you like gourmands, this is gonna be a winner. Its a very good cake scent.

TL;DR: Buttery vanilla cake with berries. Beautiful cake gourmand. 4/5.

Alkemia: Devil’s Dandy

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Devil’s Dandy

A diabolically seductive blend of elegant dark leathers, wild black currants and forest blackberries soaked in blood-red merlot wine, mahogany wood, and brooding musk with a whiff of carnal patchouli and the faintest whisper of brimstone.

I had to try this when I saw that one of the notes was brimstone; that just seemed so odd for a perfume since brimstone/sulfur smells pretty bad. You can buy it from Alkemia’s Etsy store. It’s $12 US for a 5mL full size. You can also buy it as part of an Alkemia sample set, where it will be 1mL

In the bottle: Oh boy, this is sour, like really unripe berries. It’s very alcoholic too, and strong. I hope this mellows out.

On the skin: Thankfully, this scents calms the heck down. It’s now a really interesting mix of the currants, blackberries and mahogany wood. The brimstone is subtle but definitely there; it makes the scent more masculine. Somehow, it smells sweeter on me than in the bottle. It’s a scent that creates an image of an old Victorian study with dark wood furniture where someone spilled a bottle of sweet, fruity wine on the desk. It’s nice, but it’s not my favorite.

TL;DR: Berry wine and mahongany wood. 3.5/5.

Alkemia: Calliope

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Calliope

A beguiling divertissement of piquant clementine, orange blossoms, white orchid, sugared currants, tonka, and vanilla musk whirled with flirtatious teases of billowy cotton candy floss and kisses of saltwater taffy.

I wanted Calliope for two reasons: 1) I loved the name since I love all things carnival and circus and 2) it seemed different from the kind of scents I normally gravitate towards. I generally gravitate towards darker, sexier scents and something light and semi-floral is not my wheelhouse. You can buy it from Alkemia’s Etsy store. It’s $12 US for a 5mL full size. You can also buy it as part of an Alkemia sample set, where it will be 1mL

In the bottle: Cotton candy and vanilla. This is very sweet, almost too much so. I think I detect a hint of citrus in there as well from the clementine.

On the skin: I was worried that this was going to be overly sweet, but it’s not in the slightest once applied. It’s an elegant sweet, not ridiculously sugary, thanks to the orange blossoms and orchid. It’s like a more mature, complex version of that Pink Sugar scent that was really popular. The saltwater taffy gives it more depth and adds a smell that reminds me of funnel cake. It’s a perfect summer scent: flirty, fun and bright. However, this is extremely light and it fades within 30 minutes on me, which is very disappointing. I’ll probably destash this one.

TL;DR: Cotton candy, taffy and orange blossom. Vanishes on my skin. 2/5