BPAL’s “Dorian Family”: An Analysis

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If you are familiar with Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab, then you have probably heard of Dorian. Dorian is an extremely popular GC scent that only became more popular since it has been out of stock for over six months. However, BPAL has two other scents that are known to be very similar: Jareth from the Labyrinth Collection and Theodosius, The Legerdemain from the Carnival Diabolique Collection. All of those scents contain a fougere, which is a blend of florals like lavender, bergamot, and geranium mixed with earthier elements like oakmoss. It’s a popular base for men’s fragrances.

Since I have all three scents, I decided to really analyze them to see how similar they are to Dorian.


A Victorian fougere with three pale musks and dark, sugared vanilla tea.

It’s a beautiful sugared tea and lemon scent. Not sour at all. In the back is the musk which adds this masculine edge to it. It smells like a cup of sugary black tea with vanilla cream and a lemon wedge being eaten in the presence of a super-hot Victorian dude who smells awesome.


Ethereal lilac fougere and gleaming leather with ti leaf, tonka absolute, white musk, and oudh.

The florals are very prominent, and the leather adds a sexy edge. You can definietly tell that this has a similar base to Dorian. It’s a masculine scent despite the florals; there’s something rather “cologne” about it, but not in a bad way. It’s exactly what you would expect Jareth to smell like: sexy, but also very ethereal and fae. Jareth is less sweet and more floral compared to Dorian.

Theodosisus, The Legerdemain

Earl Grey tea leaves, a white fougere, jasmine leaf, pearlescent white musk, and vanilla bean.

The Earl Grey tea is quite strong in this blend, alongside the prominent lemon. It’s less sweet than Dorian and less floral than Jareth. Its definitely the most masculine smelling of the three though. I can detect some jasmine leaf, but it isn’t overwhelming for once. Its more similar to Dorian than it is to Jareth; in fact, the drydown is almost identical.

So, what are the differences?

Dorian is the sweetest of the bunch as the sugar note is more prominent. Jareth is the most floral due to the lilac fougere, and probably the most feminine of the three. Theodosius is the most masculine of the bunch, and is both less sweet than Dorian (until the drydown) and less floral than Jareth.

Final Thoughts

The closest match to Dorian to my nose is definitely Theodosius. That being said, all three scents are certainly different, and it all depends on what you want in a fragrance. So, if you want Dorian but don’t want to pay markup prices, Theodosisus, the Legerdemain is a really good, very similar scent.

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